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Jordan's desert castles
Kerak, Amra, Azraq, Hallabat, Kharanah, and Mushatta.
Widely varied in function, architectural style, and
creative embellishment, such one is well worth a visit,
Doted throughout the semi-arid, steppe like terrain of
eastern Jordan and the central hills are numerous
historic ruins including castles, forts, towers, baths,
farming estates, caravan inns and fortified places which
have traditionally been known as desert castles.
Qasr Amra
Of all the Ummayed castles
in Jordan, Amra is the most loved. It was built as a
bath house and its existence adds to the theory that
these ‘Desert Castles’ were built mainly for leisure and
not as forts. The auditorium chamber, used for feasting,
meetings and cultural events, leads through an
antechamber to the baths.
The walls of the antechamber are decorated with
athletic, hunting and wildlife scenes. Qasr Amra had an
elaborate bathing complex and a sophisticated heating
system. The caldarium’s domed ceiling depicts the
constellations of the northern hemisphere and signs of
the Zodiac.
Qasr Kharana
The mighty fortress at
Kharana is one of Jordan’s strangest deviations - built
in the form of a castle, experts maintain that it was a
palace in disguise. The lavish plastering of the upper
halls and rooms, the splendid vaulted ceilings and
attention to decorative details raise the question that
Kharana was a fort.
As Qasr Kharana does not have a substantial water source
or a major route passing by, scholars suggest that it
could have been an extravagant meeting place for Ummayed
leaders.
Qasr Mushatta
Qasr
Mushatta is extraordinary because of its grandeur and
construction. It is worth visiting Mushatta at sunset as
the last rays illuminate the exquisite brickwork.
Another page of Mushatta’s history was added in 1904,
when the magnificent patterns were removed and presented
by the Turkish Sultan to German Kaiser Wilhelm. The
remains were taken to Berlin and were destroyed in World
War ll.
Qasr Al-Hallabat
Qasr Al-Hallabat lies 25
km northeast of Zarqa and 55 km northwest of Azraq Fort.
The site comprises a conglomerate of separate and widely
spaced units.
These include a palace (qasr), a mosque, a huge
reservoir, 8 cisterns dug into the western slope, an
irregularly shaped agricultural enclosure with an
elaborate system of sluices, and a cluster of poorly
built houses which extend to the northwest of the
reservoir. The bath complex of Hammam Assarah, is
situated 2 km to the east of the qasr.
Originally Roman, this castle was rebuilt during the
Umayyad period when it was elaborately decorated in
mosaics, carved stucco, and fresco paintings, thus
transforming the castle into a palatial residence. There
are about 150 inscriptions within the castle, mostly in
Greek. The vast majority of these inscribed stones,
which were reused as building material, belong to an
edict issued by the Byzantine Emperor Anastasius
(491-518 AD).
Azraq Fort
The copious springs in
the oasis of Azraq made it an attractive place for
settlement since the Lower Paleolithic Period. In the
Roman period, the site was of crucial importance because
of its location near the northern tip of Wadi Al-Sirhan,
the natural migration route between southern Syria and
the interior of the Arabian Peninsula.
A chain of fortresses defended the entrance to the
Oasis; Aseikim, 15 km northeast of Azraq and Uwainid,
another 15 km to the southwest, close to the Shaumari
Nature Reserve. The present fort at Azraq, built
entirely from local basalt stones, was occupied from the
time of the Tetrarchy (300 AD), as an inscription of
Diocletian and Maximian suggests.
Another Latin inscription indicates that Azraq may have
been called Dasianis or Basianis (The Basic) in Roman
times. An Arabic inscription above the main entrance
indicates a major rebuilding program in 1237 AD. During
the Umayyad period, it was the place of retreat for Al-Walid
II, who indignantly struck away from the court of his
uncle and reigning Caliph, Hisham bin AbdulMalek
(724-743 AD).
An interesting feature of Azraq South (Azraq Al-Shishan),
is a large hexagonal reservoir built of dressed basalt
stones and strengthened at regular intervals by rounded
and triangular buttresses, placed against the outer and
inner faces of the enclosing walls. These features bring
to mind the large enclosures at Qasr Al-Hir East and
Qasr Al-Hir West in Syria, which date to the Umayyad
period. Azraq fort also was the headquarters of Lawrence
of Arabia during the Arab Revolt.
Some 2 km to the north of the fort is an Umayyad
farmhouse (Qasr Ain Al-Sil), which includes oil-presses
and a bath consisting of 3 rooms: cold, warm, and hot.
Al-Muwaqqar
Virtually nothing remains
of this qasr, which once stood on an elevated mound
surveying the desert and the cultivated lands to the
west. The qasr and the huge reservoir to the southeast
are associated, on the basis of literary and epigraphic
evidence, with the Caliph Yazid II (719-723 AD).
Numerous capitals
decorated with acanthus leaves and Arabic inscriptions,
as well as a water gauge to measure the depth of water
in the reservoir, were recovered from the site. |